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Principles - how many
- Bernd
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I should have written "almost vertical", agree.
But you could also use DRIFT to keep the rod out of the lines way, too
Here is a very special technique I use for really huge distance on the Switch/ Jump roll cast:
1. Position your feet squared to the target (some distance between your feet)
2. Move the rod backwards while leaning over on your line hand sided foot. Rod tilted to the side in order to achieve high tension in the V-loop without missing the anchor.
3. Move your body over to the rod hand sided foot in order to keep (only) the tip in plane while changing rod plane directed to a more vertical position.
4. Shoot it.
I came to this technique by thinking about how I would have to move my rod tip for a perfect Switch if I could move ONLY the rod tip.
I have played with that for a while and it took some time to get it working. Once I hit it, the lines goes out on highest distance I've seen on that cast.
Of course someone in Switzerland has already developed this technique 20 years ago. :p .
But you could also use DRIFT to keep the rod out of the lines way, too
Here is a very special technique I use for really huge distance on the Switch/ Jump roll cast:
1. Position your feet squared to the target (some distance between your feet)
2. Move the rod backwards while leaning over on your line hand sided foot. Rod tilted to the side in order to achieve high tension in the V-loop without missing the anchor.
3. Move your body over to the rod hand sided foot in order to keep (only) the tip in plane while changing rod plane directed to a more vertical position.
4. Shoot it.
I came to this technique by thinking about how I would have to move my rod tip for a perfect Switch if I could move ONLY the rod tip.
I have played with that for a while and it took some time to get it working. Once I hit it, the lines goes out on highest distance I've seen on that cast.
Of course someone in Switzerland has already developed this technique 20 years ago. :p .
Bernd Ziesche
www.first-cast.de
www.first-cast.de
- Marc LaMouche
- BBBB No 2,5 Le NP
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- Bernd
- IB3 Member Level 1
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- Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:55 pm
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Hi Trev,
exactly.
And if Marc likes me to, yes, I can even step over the anchor and then have it even between my feet
Seriously, try it. I have shown that technique to Tony Riley. He took of his I-phone to put down some notes to remember. We both agreed this was a serious step to improve, because we always have to significally deal with the compromise in changing plane otherwise.
Greets
Bernd
exactly.
And if Marc likes me to, yes, I can even step over the anchor and then have it even between my feet
Seriously, try it. I have shown that technique to Tony Riley. He took of his I-phone to put down some notes to remember. We both agreed this was a serious step to improve, because we always have to significally deal with the compromise in changing plane otherwise.
Greets
Bernd
Bernd Ziesche
www.first-cast.de
www.first-cast.de
- sms
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With distance spey it is a trade off.
You want your d/v-loop to be as narrow as possible (looked from back/top/front) to have as much aligned mass as possible.
You also want your line to go over the anchor as it seems to tear easiest off the water that way. Or it just makes the least sideways movement into the line.
Usually the cast is made with a (long) slow lift and then quick back cast into another direction of the line -> transverse wave. If we want to get anchor aligned with the target, it has to go thru the wave and then it is way to the side. The only way to get it closer is to cast the line closer to the caster and that calls for a very upright rod in the back cast. And then the line would have to go thru the caster - doesn't work.
This photo on Mike's pages (of Ben?) shows the transverse wave that makes anchor alignment/positioning difficult http://www.flylineshop.com/images/DH18D.jpg
Crashed anchors, we should try to avoid them, but it it better to get line crashed on the correct line than have them stick to the side. The energy in the back cast is also quite difficult to get the anchor land and stick if you don't force it (crashing). I have managed to get some really nice anchors but on those cases the fluff comes very close to the surface all the way to the anchor (sometimes touching the surface on the way).
Usually, if the anchor is not good, you can see it in the turnover. The same applies if you have too big a transverse wave in the line that the rod causes at the very beginning of the forward stroke. The wave moves towards the anchor and touches water -> no good.
You want your d/v-loop to be as narrow as possible (looked from back/top/front) to have as much aligned mass as possible.
You also want your line to go over the anchor as it seems to tear easiest off the water that way. Or it just makes the least sideways movement into the line.
Usually the cast is made with a (long) slow lift and then quick back cast into another direction of the line -> transverse wave. If we want to get anchor aligned with the target, it has to go thru the wave and then it is way to the side. The only way to get it closer is to cast the line closer to the caster and that calls for a very upright rod in the back cast. And then the line would have to go thru the caster - doesn't work.
This photo on Mike's pages (of Ben?) shows the transverse wave that makes anchor alignment/positioning difficult http://www.flylineshop.com/images/DH18D.jpg
Crashed anchors, we should try to avoid them, but it it better to get line crashed on the correct line than have them stick to the side. The energy in the back cast is also quite difficult to get the anchor land and stick if you don't force it (crashing). I have managed to get some really nice anchors but on those cases the fluff comes very close to the surface all the way to the anchor (sometimes touching the surface on the way).
Usually, if the anchor is not good, you can see it in the turnover. The same applies if you have too big a transverse wave in the line that the rod causes at the very beginning of the forward stroke. The wave moves towards the anchor and touches water -> no good.
I'm here just for the chicks.
President of The Village Idiots of Vantaa Rapids
President of The Casting Federation of Finland
-Sakke
President of The Village Idiots of Vantaa Rapids
President of The Casting Federation of Finland
-Sakke
Mikevictor wrote:Me too Vince. I still have to work out the how but I am now getting to grips with the why.
Mike
I'm going in pigeon steps as I am not entirely sure that I have the SS sequence fixed in my mind.
regards
Vince
PS I built the laser tracking tool that we talked about and added a bit of swingweight, I must have been sober at some point in Finchley
- Ben_D
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sms wrote:This photo on Mike's pages (of Ben?) shows the transverse wave that makes anchor alignment/positioning difficult http://www.flylineshop.com/images/DH18D.jpg
Hi Sakke,
That anchor is coming in from a scrappy snake roll to reposition for another single so may not be representative but I agree with what you are saying.
For a serious distance shot, getting as much mass in the top portion of the D and getting the anchor far enough back is critical. More critical in my experience than a neat, tidy & straight anchor although a nice clean anchor can't hurt.
Cheers
Ben
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Bernd wrote:Here is a very special technique I use for really huge distance on the Switch/ Jump roll cast:
1. Position your feet squared to the target (some distance between your feet)
2. Move the rod backwards while leaning over on your line hand sided foot. Rod tilted to the side in order to achieve high tension in the V-loop without missing the anchor.
3. Move your body over to the rod hand sided foot in order to keep (only) the tip in plane while changing rod plane directed to a more vertical position.
4. Shoot it.
I came to this technique by thinking about how I would have to move my rod tip for a perfect Switch if I could move ONLY the rod tip.
I have played with that for a while and it took some time to get it working. Once I hit it, the lines goes out on highest distance I've seen on that cast.
Of course someone in Switzerland has already developed this technique 20 years ago. :p .
Bernd, I tried this on Friday and again today. A really effective technique. Single-hand Spey: Gangnam Style!
Thanks, Andrew
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