45 degree DS

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Mon Nov 26, 2012 2:46 am

Hi Guys,

how do you teach bringing the anchor level with the shoulder with this cast?

It seems to me that it's probably not worth trying to do, but you could try,

1) fishing the dangle to the inside,
2) cutting in - which is risky
3) making a backwards snake, which defeats the advantages of the DS.

Is there an easier way?

Thanks, Paul

White Hunter · Post by **White Hunter** » Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:57 pm

1 get the most line angle outstream out of your line set during the first upstream lay. "Fishing inbank beyond parrallel to the bank is a good start"

2 jump anchor into good position by reversing tip path into d loop outside of laying line " takes lots of practice"..

3 use very short heads which can be pushed to perform well when set up out of position

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 12:56 am

There is no four

It's a difficult cast. The more time I spend with this the more I think this is the hardest anchor placement.

TrevH · Post by **TrevH** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:12 am

Me too. I also struggle with the 45 degree off shoulder snake ...

Ah ... now I know what I'll be practising over Christmas

Cheers
Trev

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 5:09 pm

The 45 degree Snake I find easier, and is just a case of putting the spiral in the right place. I recently bought a couple of nymph tapers and plan to spend the next 3-4 months working on this aspect of my casting.

Cheers, Paul

TrevH · Post by **TrevH** » Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:18 pm

Paul Arden wrote:.... just a case of putting the spiral in the right place.

How do you find the Nymph Taper compares to the Barrio SLX for this, Paul?

Cheers
Trev

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 1:05 am

I think they're pretty similar. I haven't mastered either line yet, the Nymph Taper feels like a harder finish. Dunno - ask me again in three months!

Cheers, Paul

Chris68 · Post by **Chris68** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 4:28 pm

Why do you need the anchor level with your shoulder from a teaching perspective?

Easiest way of doing this is to leave a lot more line downstream after the initial move of line upstream, then in the second part as you sweep back around you end up with the anchor a little further in front of you but a decent D loop and enough energy to deliver the cast, it conforms to the 180 degree rule, gives you an anchor and a d loop, is there another speycasting rule I don't know about?

Chris

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 5:00 pm

Simply to make the cast more efficient, Chris. If distance is required for example.

Cheers, Paul

Bernd · Post by **Bernd** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:45 am

TrevH wrote:
Paul Arden wrote:.... just a case of putting the spiral in the right place.

How do you find the Nymph Taper compares to the Barrio SLX for this, Paul?

Cheers
Trev

Hi Trev,
I found significante differency in the turnover between the 5wt., 6wt. and especially the 7wt. Nymph Taper fly lines.
The higher the line weight, the more powerful the turnover seems to get. The 7wt. brought in a too heavy turnover for smooth delievery on most of my Spey casts.
The 5wt. performed great to me and the 6wt. was still ok, too.
The SLX has a smoother turnover and the head is little longer.
The SLF has a 10meters (33 feet) head (incl. rear taper) while the Nymph Taper has a 8,2m head (27 feet). Therefore the Nymph taper will be a bit more unstaple during distance shoots.
That is why I prefered the SLX for my Spey casting.
The Nymph Taper performed very well when cutting of half a meter of the tip section and then add a 2 meter poly leader! That made it much more staple during the shoots.
Greets
Bernd

Bernd · Post by **Bernd** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:53 am

Paul Arden wrote:1) fishing the dangle to the inside,
2) cutting in - which is risky
3) making a backwards snake, which defeats the advantages of the DS.

Is there an easier way?

Thanks, Paul

Hi Paul,
try to start the rod movement for the first upstream lay of the line with the rod in a slightly more vertical plane and then during the sweep tilt the rod plane down (or out). That helps me to set the first lay upstream get squared to the 45° final delievery cast.
Combining that with the inbank lift works well for me.

I like to think of the rod plane as a tool to control how far away of my position the line should be positioned on every lay.
Greets
Bernd

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 3:03 pm

Thanks Bernd, I'll give this a shot. I can see exactly now what I have to do.

Cheers, Paul

Paul Arden · Post by **Paul Arden** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:02 am

You know, I think 3 - an inbound circle C is best. You have to cut out when you make the C. It's much easier to lay the line down in position and you can use lots of force.

I think I make a similar movement on an aerielised 90. But will have to check :p

Cheers, Paul

Bernd · Post by **Bernd** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:25 am

Hey Paul,
how do you change rod plane during this movement from the start of the lift towards the lay?
Greets
B

p.s.: How is weather in Hungary? :p

TrevH · Post by **TrevH** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:09 pm

Paul Arden wrote:You know, I think 3 - an inbound circle C is best.

... but is it then a double Spey?

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