Recoils or not Recoils?

[sms]

Btw, the normal recoil tip top will wear line fast since the tube tip is against the line on forward cast. I've put a bit of glue on them, but will not get another one. Left in the pic.

On my FT905-4 I have the double loop one. No problems with that. Right on the pic.

The pic is not mine, I went on the Internet, and I found this:

[Ben_D]

I said most. Ben, you seem to be the exception. Although I still think that there must be some other factors too. There must be a logical explanation why most don't wear them out and some do.

If they destroy the Dremmel stones they can't be so fragile and soft, can they?

Yup, can't quite get my head around it. They should be quite hard yet I still seem to kill them!

Cheers

Ben

[sikearns]

I don't remember the size but there were probably 1-2 mm free space around the head of a 9 wt floating line.
I really would like to see a chart with the weight of recoils, HHs and Fuji TLNGs.

I think I have the weight of titanium lined Fujiis somewhere. Weight is in grains as I was playing with a new scale. If I find them I'll post

Regards

[Bloke]

I have just put a full set of 11 recoils on ebay....starting price at .99p
Surely someone will want them???????????????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm....5.l2649
And FREE shipping to america.....
But no bids as yet ...darn it..

[Bloke]

Btw, the normal recoil tip top will wear line fast since the tube tip is against the line on forward cast. I've put a bit of glue on them, but will not get another one. Left in the pic.

On my FT905-4 I have the double loop one. No problems with that. Right on the pic.

The pic is not mine, I went on the Internet, and I found this:

sms
I am not quite with you...?
Dont you mean the back cast whilst hauling?....ie rubbing against the exposed tube at the front of the tip?
Mick

[Paul Arden]

Yeah, we'll buy them. No problems. Send an email or PM Akos and we'll Paypal you.

Cheers, Paul

[Bloke]

Yeah, we'll buy them. No problems. Send an email or PM Akos and we'll Paypal you.

Cheers, Paul

Paul
Why dont you put in a low bid on ebay....I reckon you will steal them for a couple of quid!
Best
Mick

[_Ré]

I am the high bidder. But I have competition.

[sms]

Normally the line is on the blank side of the tip ring during forward cast. And at the "free end" of the loop on back cast.

Will check the auction even I don't need any guides at the moment.

[Bernd]

SiCs I can't wear out, but they kill the rod (at least low swing weight, fast action, light tipped rods).

Sorry mate, I can't agree here, since you too significally liked to cast the rod I was using in the AAPGAI exam. It had titanium SICs on it. We both agreed it to be a fantastic rod.

Having a little extra weight DOES NOT KILL the rod!
If that would be true in general, then my light saber (that am really looking forward to get tomorrow) would already be a "dead stick", right?
I could easily make it loosing swing weight by just taking of the white colour...
Or I could reduce the ring wrappings + coating above the wrappings about another 30%. For casting that should not cause any problem. For Tarpon maybe

Also I have been casting rods without having any coating on top of the pure thread, too. It was no problem for casting the rod. Sure I safed swing weight.

The main difference I have experienced here is that you change how much bend you create for the rod during casting. As we know some like little more bend, others like little less and Alejandro sometimes like to have NO bend :p
I can adjust the blank and the ring + wrap + coating weight in order to get my favorite bending for the rod I want...

Greets
Bernd

[Lasse Karlsson]

Weird, I have no problem sanding down recoils, just don't use the stones, the cutters are much better.

The right Fuji titanium sic's weigh about the same as thin wire snakes, and that's in the same leaque as recoils, the fuji sic's Paul used where for a spinning rod with about the ugliest, biggest whippings this side of the southpole. There's a pic somewhere on the board, those rings even kill a light spinningrod

Standard singlelegs are much heavier than recoils or thin wire snakes, so they do make a difference in feel, definetly!

Also we had some data collected years ago about weights of different rings and thread and epoxy and stuff, there's even a site somewhere that has them cataloged, used to have the link a couple of computers ago :glare:

I did an estimate, and last year I think I passed 1000 hours with a flyrod in my hand in my life, I have only worn down a few thin wire snakes, and usually the last one on the top section of a fast action rod. A few tiptops as well. However give me a wet clay bank and a braided shootingline, I'll wear out a full set in half a days fishing. I've done that with a brand new build rod first outing... I was not happy

Good to see that the SL rod is going with only four rings (ex tiptop) on the top section, lessen the weight where it matters However go with thin wire snakes on the normal rings, they weigh less than singleleg standards even with one more whipping

Anyone tried casting with sharkskinlines and single recoils :p

Cheers
Lasse

[_Ré]

However go with thin wire snakes on the normal rings, they weigh less than singleleg standards even with one more whipping

Hmm, we may give it a go. Haven't considered that option at all.

[Bernd]

Some years ago me and a friend played with adding weight to the blank by taking duct tape and fixing lead to the (back side of) tip as well as to positions below the tip.

Our idea was to achieve a deeper load for a stiff rod in order to have more rod bend while using a pretty light line offering us softest presentation of a dry fly.
Well, sure we also had some weird minds (as usual) about what, when and how is going on in the cast from the physical point of view :p

What I do rememeber (it was around 10 years ago) is, that the rod was not killed by that. The rod stiffness and the feel was changed, yes. But it did not have to be completely bad.
Also I remember Erhard Loidl from Austria who has build tons of custom made Sage rods using SIC rings on some rods on which he found them to be better while on other blanks he did not like them. For sure he had huge experience behind the choices he made for each blank!

I think it's not black and white. It depends on what one prefers and how all single parts work together?!

When talking about the smallest possible swing weight another important point comes to my mind: Ring diameter.
The first Helios rod had really small ring diameters on their recoils. Damned I hated to have beginners showing up with that rod in the lesson since the thicker part of most fly lines kind of sticked in the rings!
I always prefered to have the bigger diameter (causing little more swing weight of course).

[Paul Arden]

It's not how it bends during the stroke Bernd, it's how the tip behaves after the stop. If you watch the bottom leg of the loop you can see a damping difference between Recoils Singles and H&H Singles. I've had the opportunity to see this first hand.

It may not matter to most people, and it certainly doesn't matter on a rod blank that doesn't damp well, but it makes a difference if you really look for it on the HT.

Apart from which I've broken and bent a lot of rigid rings, but never a recoil! We'll certainly try wire snakes, Lasse. That will be another interesting comparison.

Cheers, Paul

[Bernd]

It's not how it bends during the stroke Bernd, it's how the tip behaves after the stop. If you watch the bottom leg of the loop you can see a damping difference between Recoils Singles and H&H Singles. I've had the opportunity to see this first hand.

What exactly are you referring to as "the stop" here -
does it end with RSP1 or 2 or 3?

So what kind of difference did you see in the rod-leg?

Would you be able to tell which HT am casting while standing behind a wall to make you only see my loops? Could be an interesting exercise. :p

After Lee found that mark on my line, I sure wouldn't call this to be inpossible, too - but sure INTERESTING to give it a go .

p.s.: Waiting for your first snake report!